![]() ![]() ![]() For the builder I worked with, large kitchen areas/foyers had 1/2 inch durrock applied over the 3/4 OSB sub floor which was on TJI floor joists 16" o/c, not sure of span of joist size. Level any sheet-to-sheet height variances with a belt sander and/or use a product like dash-patch, to level things out where necessary.īut.If you put the tile down direct over the subfloor.don't be surprised if you wind up with some grout cracking, eventually.Īs many have stated, deflection is the issue/concern. If you don't want to put down the MDF, and you want to tile direct over the plywood subfloor (again, I'm assuming it is 1 and 1/8 ply), you will need to spend a real good amount of time inspecting all of your joints where the sheets meet, checking for deflection, adding additional nails/screws where necessary to tighten things up. Take time to align the sheets so that the joints between sheets are extremely tight, almost invisible. I put the MDF down with construction adhesive and using a bostich pneumatic stapler that drives 1 and 1/4" "horseshoe" staples and sets them just sub-flush. Using that method, I did around 2,000 square feet, 18" square tiles, 1/8" grout spacing, and it has been down for 10 years now, with NO problems. The second-best method: Put down 1/2" MDF and tile directly over that. ![]() Backerboard (Hardieboard or similar), installed as per the manufacturers instructions, joints taped and mudded, etc, is the most dimensionally stable base material (aside from tiling on a concrete slab) ![]()
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